Nathan Jenden
Nathan Jenden's AW09 vision was declared a triumph on Saturday night and FemaleFirst was there to find out about the man behind the gorgeous designs.
Fresh from receiving outstanding praise from the fashion pack, we went backstage to try and corner Nathan for a chat. On our way we manage to bump into models, hairdressers and stylists all frantically trying to wind down the show.
After finally tracking the man of the moment down, which wasn't easy considering how understandably excitable he was, we headed outside to chat about his influences, his dream clients and why he'd like to reinvent the Queen...
Hi Nathan, firstly congrats on the collection, it's really amazing!
Wow, thanks that's really good of you.
So, your AW09 collection is inspired by the architecture of snowflakes and icicles, where did that idea come from?
I watched a documentary called Nanook of the North, it's the first kind of ethnicological documentary, so it was like made in the twenties and it's silent, it's really amazing visually, it's all black and white.
I really liked the idea of a black and white, ying and yang and all that, and I also really liked the idea of the way the Eskimos kind of bind themselves and wrap themselves, but kind of mixing those influences. Because when you first think of Eskimos, you think of fur and fluffy, but I thought it was all about the sharpness and clarity of the light and of snowflakes and their structure.
What are your primary influences in fashion?
Well, last season was all punky kind of 80s looks, with bright colours and everything, and this season I just wanted to clean it all up and make a very focused and very serious collection, and it's smaller than I normally am.
Yes, I was going to ask- why have you switched to a smaller venue this season?
I just felt like it was a more intimate season, and I wanted to have a closer conversation with the audience, you know?
Do you think the recession has had an impact on fashion this year?
Everybody is seeing what's important in fashion now, and I think if you ignore that then you come off looking insensitive and wrapped up in a bubble and fashion is about the world, you know and what's happening now. The point about fashion is capture that.
Nathan Jenden AW09
Whose celebrity style do you rate right now?
Well, I think Thandie Newton rarely puts a foot wrong [FF: She's very stylish and classic] Well, yeah classicism it kind of stylish. I also think erm... I don't know, who do I think is really stylish? I dunno I think a lot of people are!
Who would be your dream to dress?
(Mumbles) Queen Elizabeth [FF: Sorry, who?] The Queen. [FF: wow, really?] Well, you know she's not got long left and it would be great to dress her! I think she is quite regal and fun.
How does your role as a designer differ from your role as a Creative Director at Diane von Furstenberg?
Well, I'm a designer there too and it's a much broader role obviously, and it's so big too. You know it's shoes, it's bags, it's everything like a family. We have something like 40 stores worldwide and something like 500 stockists so it's like a really big job, I have a pretty big team.
It's a very different job and it's very strange to come and do this, after having like 8000 people around me and I'm all wired with mics and it's very crazy! I've got like Diana Ross in the front row and Jennifer Lopez, so it's very different. We had something like 2000 people there at the DVF show last Sunday. [FF: We loved that show to, it was incredible] Thank you, cheers. Saying that it was great for me because I designed that too and it was weird you know, two different continents.
Your sponsored by Cotton USA can you tell us a bit about that?
I'm not sure how long I'm sponsored for, but yeah they sell cotton organdies and cotton ceres and there's also some lacquered cotton, which is crisp and white and it's actually a chintzed cotton, like a glace, and it works well in my collection. I love their cotton because it's really crisp and clear, and it felt right because my collection is all about clarity.
Nathan Jenden AW09
SS09 was widely regarded as your strongest collection to date- did you feel any pressure this season?
No, to me it's just to do something different. You know hopefully this one will be different too. SS09 was really strong, and I don't normally do colours so that really surprised people and you know I am really fluid with colour, I do Diane's and I know how to work colours together totally. And also after Diane's it's great to just clean my palette and even last spring, the colours used there you'd never use in a Diane show, they're too florescent.
Your style has been described as frothy and feminine, but with a street London edge- do you think that's accurate?
Yeah I think it's a bit high-end low-end, but I kind of like that. You know I'm a big high-end, low-end myself!
Who do you look up to in the industry?
As a designer as a businessman or what? [FF: both] Right, I really respect Yoshi Yamamoto and John Galliano. Those are the people I really respect as designers, oh and Diane von Furstenberg, of course!
As a Central Saint Martins graduate, do you find yourself keeping an eye out for new talent emerging from there?
Yes, you know it's my job to look out for new people, I look out all the time- you know I have a huge brand to direct and need to keep on top of new talent.
Thanks Nathan and well done again!
Thanks, cheers.
Read My Live Catwalk Review Here and don't forget to check out the catwalk video made by Nathan's sponsors Cotton USA.
FemaleFirst- Laura Terry