John Rocha AW09
As much as you write about something, you can never fully appreciate it until you see it in the flesh, so with London Fashion Week once again upon us, I ventured into the unknown to experience the highs and lows of the catwalk.
Taking my seat at John Rocha, I can tell you a few things first off. Yes, the models really are that skinny in real life, everyone really does elbow you in the face to get a better look at things, and yes clapping is essential, even if the collection is rubbish.
So, to the fashion and what could we expect from John Rocha this season? Well, plenty of black is the answer there and not a lot else.
Considering we’re in a recession, it was surprising to see so many somber looks strutting down the runway; you would have thought colour would be a must, to cheer everyone up if nothing else.
That said, I was actually a bit of a fan of this collection, with its Anne Boleyn headbands and Victorian England frilly collars being the highlight of the whole range in my opinion.
As the first model strutted down the runway, there was a definite sense of anticipation in the air as the world’s media started flashing their cameras at an alarming rate, while a waif-like looking girl showcased a peter pan collared coat.
It was well structured, detailed and polished- in other words signature Rocha, and as more of the same followed, I was beginning to feel a bit flat, as though I was promised something which was yet to be delivered.
Then, the breakthrough, or my eureka moment as a like to call it: a standout glitter bow dress. Elegant, sophisicated and chic are just some of the words I can use to describe it, and the glare of sparkles which came my way and nearly blinded me in the process, showed how good bling can look when done properly.
My second moment of absolute euporia came near the end, when a cobweb dress complete with a big sparkly, squishy bow collar took to the runway. We saw cobweb dresses for AW08 and to see it make a reappearance two season later, and update it in such a fun way had me grinning like a loon.
There were a lot of bows on display, which just goes to show you how we refuse to let go of a trend, once we can put in on everything imaginable; coats, dresses and skirts were just some of the examples in this collection.
Drop hem dresses, which had an air of the 20s about them soon followed down the runway, and I was particuarly fond of the crazy high collars which were scattered throughout the collection too.
Yes they made the models look like very odd vicars, particuarly when the sheer panels on some of the dresses showed both their boobs and bum, but other than that- hey, we were sold!
What really struck me in my nosebleed seat was how intricately designed everything actually was. Cut out panels, painstaking beaded details on simple dresses and tonnes of ruffled tweed suits graced the runway in quick succession, and not one bit of it was flawed.
Colour in the collection was pretty restricted, with only red, baby pink and white making an appearance alongside the black wash, which dominated most of the range to be totally honest.
That lack of colour aside, the nice 'ice princess' feel of the fur boleros, complete with fur headbands and suguary pink dresses made you feel like you were in a winter wonderland, just for just a minute, before I was greeted with more formal workwear and even funnier, men in long fur coats.
Despite that little blip, I liked the shape and style of the collection, as it was a break from all the fitted and clingy looks that we saw last season, and the simple shift dress can make an impact as Rocha showed.
He also seemed to be taking a SS09 trend into autumn with a range of structured and tailored jackets, complete with exagerated shoulder pads. Thankfully he dispensed with the 80s connotations seen last season and gave us a more sophisticated look, which can only be a good thing.
So, with my excitable little face starting to sense that the end was nigh, how did Rocha finish off his vision? Why, with a glittering cape of wonder of course! It did the job nicely, but wasn't outstanding as I'd expected- sorry John!
Did the fashion pack agree with me? Well, they did leap to their feet and clap as though their lives depended on it when he graced the runway, so maybe they knew something I didn't.
Either that, or it really is the done thing to scream like a banshee, whether you liked the collection or not.
To see more outfits go to our John Rocha gallery.
FemaleFirst- Laura Terry