Josephus Thimister

Josephus Thimister

Thimister retreated from the limelight over ten years ago after being hailed as a revolutionary with the deconstructed look, gaining inspiration from the styles worn by anti establishment groups and even terrorism fashion.

So how appropriate it was when he launched his comeback collection on Monday's French-Russian cultural exchange as fashion embraced the Russia of 1915, its bloody revolution and its early modernist art as inspiration for the couture collections titled '1915: Bloodshed and Opulence.'

With a grandmother of White Russian heritage and his own Belgian background, the designer took the same edgy stance as when his deconstructed clothes were inspired by the Baader-Meinhof revolutionists back in 1999.

Clothes, for both men and women, were no longer decayed and destroyed though the occasional painted blood splashes on khaki military coats or a cosy white knit added drama, but in the main it was noble and classical in a rough way, with fabrics, even fur-trimmed, to match.

Thimster still demonstrated a raw and bleakness about these clothes, even the stunning and elegant bright red cocktail dresses that he  defined as dress-up clothes for a 'neurotic aristocracy' whose imperious behaviour lead to the blood and death of violent revolt.

Thimister telling the press "We are still feeling the effects of the Bolshevik Revolution and the rise of communism; we have never recovered," when talking about his dresses scared with sashes and fashioned evening gowns seemingly fashioned from crushed metal.

Thimister's message of destruction is as powerful now as it was when he shocked the established smug, rich world in the 1990's this was a good comeback showing how cutting skills make both the male and female clothes look convincing as fashion, if not couture.

No longer feeling his revolution had become commonplace Thimister's collection will catch the imagination of the younger generation as it prods at the smug and opulent