Protecting your wood means it will last a lot longer
Embarking on an outdoor DIY project can be a daunting task no matter how experienced you are. There are the tools and the products to consider, not forgetting the temperamental British weather to contend with which can halt any plans before they have even got off of the ground.
And while caring for your exterior woodwork may seem like a major task, it’s actually all in the preparation. Here, Sean Thompson, Senior Technical Consultant at Sadolin, shares his preparation and staining know-how to help put your DIY nerves at ease. 
“Wood is natural, hardwearing and beautiful – providing you give it the care and attention it needs. Applying the right product will not only make a difference to aesthetics, it will also protect it from the elements, making your indoor or outdoor space look smarter for longer.
“We offer interior and exterior formulations which bring a range of benefits and superior performance characteristics to allow wood to flex and breathe to provide a rich, durable and long lasting finish.”
Why protect exterior woodwork?
Because it’s constantly under attack from rainwater, UV-rays, changes in temperature and humidity, biological infestation, not to mention rot and decay. The best way to provide protection and a decorative finish is by using a high performance woodstain.
Why woodstain rather than varnish?
Whereas varnishes ‘sit’ on the surface and peel and flake as they weather, woodstains protect by penetrating deep into the wood and gradually erode over time. To keep the base looking at its best, a thorough clean, followed by a single top coat, is all that is normally needed to restore the appearance and level of protection.
Why does wood need UV protection?
Wood contains a compound called lignin which binds together the fibres that give it strength and structure. Lignin absorbs UV rays and degrades in the process, weakening the bonds between the fibres. This process can cause significant damage to the surface layer of the wood which can become brittle and develop a grey ‘denatured’ appearance.
What preparation is needed before staining a new wooden door?
Give it a light rub down with fine sandpaper making sure to follow the direction of the grain, dust off and always finish off by wiping down with methylated spirit and a lint free cloth. 
Not wire wool and white spirit then?
No! The tiny metal filaments in wire wool can embed themselves in the wood and rust over time, wrecking the appearance of your beautifully stained door. White spirit leaves a greasy film which could hinder the coating sticking to the wood and lengthen drying times considerably.
So once the wood is prepped, I can get the first coat of stain on?
Yes, but remember, woodstains tend to ‘settle’ after being in storage for a while and need a really good stir to ensure all the solids and other agents are properly mixed-up before you dip in your brush. Always use a clean flat-faced stirrer that’s designed for the job.
What’s the best way to stain a door? Flat or in-situ?
Whatever suits you best. It’s more hassle to remove and replace the door but it’s easier to achieve a consistent run-free finish. You’ll obviously need to ventilate the area especially if you’re using products containing solvents, and you’ll have to wait until one side is bone dry before turning it over.
On the other hand, painting in-situ can be much quicker and the natural airflow will help drying times. Whichever way you do it, it’s important to pay particular attention to the top and bottom edges which are very vulnerable to letting water in, causing doors to swell and warp at certain times of year.
Can I use a completely colourless woodstain on exterior wood?
Using a protective coating with no pigmentation whatsoever is like wearing sunglasses with clear lenses! It’s the light absorbing pigment particles that prevent damaging UV-rays from getting through. That’s why you won’t find any totally colourless exterior stains in the Sadolin range.
This information was compiled by Sadolin
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