Life as an expat in Indonesia can be many things. It can be a fantastically wonderfully, enlightening and entertaining experience; it can be, at times, frustrating, nerve-wracking and downright exasperating; and it can be fascinating and mind and body-enriching all in one. However, it is seldom if ever boring.
David Nesbit
Twenty-five years (almost) after moving out to the world’s fourth- most populated country as a young(ish) man, I am still just as much in love with the place as ever I was. Trying to tie down what it is that makes Indonesia so unique and such a great place to spend some time in can be a thankless task, but the following (in no way exhaustive list) may go some way to providing a short insight into some of its charms.
Food. Indonesia has a wide array of traditional food and dishes all particular to specific regions or islands. While most of these delicious dishes tend to be on the mild side when it comes to spice content, the unaware consumer can still find his or her palate at least tingling uncomfortably the first time they sample the wares on offer.
A particular favourite found almost everywhere with slight localized variations, is a wholesome meal titled” Nasi Padang. Although variations on ingredients exist staple essentials usually include: white steamed rice, fried or boiled chicken, vegetables such as spinach or cabbage, some kind of egg content –usually a boiled egg or a type of egg omelette– and the most important ingredient of all: beef rendang. This last ingredient is a savoury speciality that adds flavour to the whole meal, and is generally seen as the most important addition.
Nasi Padang is served either as a sit-down meal or as a take-out one (bungkus). If one chooses to eat within the restaurant, then after taking a seat at a table the customer will have all the dishes brought out and laid before them on separate plates.
The diner will then simply choose which ones are required and the others will be taken away and not charged to the bill. Once the hungry customer has made his or her choice, the various selections are usually mixed together and eaten as one. Traditionally Indonesians have tended to use fingers rather than cutlery to eat this dish, and there is something to be said for this method, as for some unaccountable reason this method does indeed seem to add to its flavour.
A word of warning, though: it can get messy!
Traffic: A cliché, I know, but traffic in the big cities especially is something to behold. It is not just the volume of traffic or the infrastructure of the nation’s major cities that lead to the constant daily gridlock, but also the very culture of its inhabitants’ driving. This combined with an absence of the need to obtain a driving licence, never mind actually pass a driving test, and perhaps some idea of the problems faced on the nation’s roads can be gleaned.
Why then is traffic included in a list of reasons to visit Indonesia? Well, just for the fun and giggles of it, I suppose.
Climate: Being almost on the equator, there are no real seasons in Indonesia. There is just ‘hot’ and, in the rainy season, ‘rainy and hot’.
Every day brings almost exactly twelve hours of daylight and twelve hours of darkness on a 6am to 6pm roadshow. Whilst the lack of variety in the climate can be something to make an expat pine for home at times, logical rationalizing invites the conclusion to be drawn that warmth and sunshine 365 days a year may be a preferable alternative to the hotch-potch of weather currently being experienced back in Blighty.
An admirable sense of national identity: Indonesians love their country and are fiercely proud of it. Yet it is not a blind nationalism that takes hold of the country’s citizens, rather a sense of belonging and genuine pride in the nation and its achievements. After 73 years of independence following more than 350 years of colonisation, Indonesia has made huge strides economically and on the world stage in a number of areas and arenas. The country’s economy is currently ranked the world’s 16th largest at nominal GDP, and the 7th largest by GDP at Purchasing power parity (PPP).
Indonesians are culturally aware, and yet while they may spend some time living or studying abroad at some stage in their lives, most return to the country sooner or later. Indonesia is resolutely protective of what it considers its heritage and achievements, and will not tolerate anyone claiming otherwise. A good example of this phenomena could be seen a few years ago when the neighbouring country of Malaysia was foolish enough to claim initial production of batik as its own creation.
Vastness and diversity: There is just so much to see and do and so many places to visit! As an archipelago, there are well over 13,000 islands and hundreds of different ethnic groups, most of which possess their own language. That said, as mentioned above, a binding sense of unity within the country as a whole pervades.
Indeed, there is in fact so much to do and see that new tourists to Indonesia can often feel somewhat overwhelmed and end up finding it all a ‘bit too much’. The best piece of advice one can offer for newcomers is to focus on one or two areas of interest and try to take those in, rather than to try and see and do too much on an initial visit or holiday.
Indonesia has a rich history in art and dance, with Bali being a cultural hub to head to for those so disposed, while craft and clothing, and sports and literature are also important pastimes and interests amongst both locals and foreigners alike.
The Expat scene: Whilst not exactly burgeoning outside the big cities and obvious main tourist areas such as Bali, there are good support networks for those aiming to make Indonesia their home, even if temporarily. In Jakarta itself there is a myriad of clubs, groups and organisations that cater for a wide range of interests.
In addition, there are expat-enclaves - set aside communities and businesses in certain areas such as Kemang in Jakarta - consisting of bars, restaurants and night-clubs, for those who miss such pleasures in life. Most of these establishments are expat-owned and frequented, and so some home cooking and friendly faces from back home are never too far away.
Cost of living: Finally we come to the most important part. How much is it all going to cost? Well, whether you are visiting as a tourist or looking for something a little longer and more permanent, you are likely to be pleasantly surprised.
Other than the more obvious of tourist traps in the heart of Bali, prices for food and drink are perhaps priced at one third of what you could be reckoning on paying in the west, and while imported goods such as books and magazines remain expensive, local products and artifacts remain very cheap by comparison. These include clothes and furniture especially.
So, in summary, if like me you are lucky enough to experience the opportunity to sample the wiles and delights that Indonesia has to offer for any length of time, you too may well find yourself in no particular hurry to ‘go home’.
David Nesbit’s first novel, the Indonesian-based: Twilight in Kuta, is published by Monsoon Books in March 2018.